This T-Shirt Proves Brunch Is Art

Sqirl is now the Center for Contemporary Breakfast and Lunch.

by Chris Black
May 29 2018, 2:10pm

Photo illustration by brunch zaddy Ben Park.


Los Angeles, my second favorite city, has a rich breakfast culture. The weather is always so lovely, and people hop out of bed, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, ready to enjoy a plate of eggs before hiking up a dusty hill with other struggling actors and podcasters. Maybe you jump in your Tesla and head to Mid-City to stand in line at Republique for a wild mushroom toast, or perhaps you take your old Mercedes downtown to Grand Central Market to scarf down an unhealthy breakfast sandwich from the unfortunately named Eggslut. Every spoiled Angeleno has his own unique way to take in what Wikipedia tells us is, controversially, the most important meal of the day.

If I—a foodfluencer, fitness junkie, and dynamic creative with meaningful social media cultural capital—catch a wild hair and choose to forgo my protein bar for a civilized pre-10 AM meal, I am going to Sqirl in Silverlake. It is almost always a shitshow, but the crispy rice salad is worth the wait. It’s “rice living its best life,” according to Food52. Rice: it’s just like us!

Sqirl, like everything I love, produces some great merch. Their newest shirt tastefully (LOL) combines restaurant merch with museum merch—extremely trendy! A white t-shirt that reads “Center for Contemporary Breakfast and Lunch” with the popular eatery’s address. They get it: brunch is art! Poached eggs: a succinct visual statement. Pancakes: the manifestation of flour’s spatial politics. Avocado toast: a neoliberal cliche transformed by a formal dialogue with an immaterial network of green garlic crème fraîche. Granola: derivative.

Fill up your cart with some artisanal Seascape Strawberry & Rose Geranium Jam, but don’t forget the fire t-shirt! A lamentable commercialization of art’s autonomous spaces that I cannot wait to stunt in.

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